Viñales: May 2016

Fidel Castro Present

We were up early again to meet for our tour to Viñales. Fidel Castro described Viñales as the most beautiful land in all of Cuba. Sounds intriguing. We had debated on whether to stay the night there, but there just wasn’t enough time. The tour was all day and allowed us to hit the highlights, and seemed like the best option for us. We were there early, but of course the bus was late. Meanwhile, we were scrambling to eat something, which proved to be difficult at 7am. The drive to Viñales was only a couple hours, and our guide was really great. Our first stop on the tour was the rum factory in Pinar del Rio.

Rum Distillery Tour Guide

They went through the process of making rum and we were able to sample and buy. There were many many tourist groups, but we were surprised throughout the day that even with the sheer number of tourists, everything moved along quite smoothly.  After the rum factory we took the winding road to Viñales. Our first stop was the mirador de Viñales. From here, we could look over the valley at the hills. These aren’t ordinary hills. They are huge rock formations covered in grass, trees and bush. They look like giant boulders. The people say they look like giant tortoises, and they do. They are not connected like ordinary hills, but separate and individual. Very interesting. We had lunch a short drive away, where we ordered piña coladas. These piña coladas are the best I’ve tasted. They are made with real pineapple juice and coconut milk. They are thick and served without alcohol. They then place a bottle of rum on the table and allow you to add as much or as little as you would like. Brilliant!!!  Our lunch was next to the Mural del la pre-historia, a huge painting that covered the side of a mountain- protected of course, by UNESCO.

The Viñales Mural de la Prehistoria is the work of the former Director of Mapping at the Cuban Academy of Sciences, Leovigildo González Morillo

With full bellies we made our way to a tobacco farm where they explained the process of growing tobacco, drying the leaves, and rolling cigars. 90% of the tobacco grown belongs to the government, and the farmer is allowed to keep the other 10%. They roll their 10% and sell the cigars to the tourists, unmarked.

Our last stop sounded much cooler than it was. We walked through a cave, which was a nice cool break from the heat outside. The walk through the cave ended at a little river. We climbed into dinghys and went for a little ride through the cave.

The experience would have been much more authentic feeling if not for the roar of the motor. I mean…give the tourists a couple paddles if the “captain” of the dinghy doesn’t want to do the work, and let us paddle our way through. It would make for a much better experience. Instead, the sound of the motors resonate through the cave and the smell of exhaust permeates the nostrils. No thanks. 

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At La Bodeguita del Medio.

We slept most of the ride home and arrived just in time for dinner. Tiff wanted to buy a couple more souvenirs for her nieces, so we stopped along the way at a couple different shops. We decided to return to La Bodeguita del Medio for one last mojito and to try the local dish, ropa vieja, which translates to “old clothes”. Not the best name for such a delicious dish. 

In the morning, we took care of some last minute shopping, changed some money, which was a nightmare, said good-bye to our hosts, and made our way to the airport. All in all, I’m very glad I went to Cuba. While it was not what I had expected, and I was a little disappointed in some aspects, it is truly a place like no other. While we were there, the first US cruise arrived in Havana since the embargo.

With our Guesthouse Hosts.

I am glad we were able to visit before more foreign companies come in, take over, and Cuba loses its uniqueness, and becomes like anywhere else. Don’t get me wrong, progress for the Cubans is great, and hopefully the people actually reap the benefits of warming relations with the US. I somehow doubt it, but I am hopeful.

To see more pictures, click HERE.

Fun at the Bodeguita del Medio: